Magazines and the internet abound with information about skincare innovations courtesy of Korea. A big focus has been on the 10-step (or more!) routine that many women there follow on a daily basis.
You know I’m a big believer in daily skincare, however even with my advanced homecare, this seems like a lot to undertake! I always advocate a simple programme, as it will create a habit, which can be expanded as time passes.
As I researched this piece though, I realised that the double digit number isn’t really about daily steps. Sure, it goes beyond the four key steps I recommend, however, many are only done a few times a week or can be swapped in if and when you need more. Perhaps it's not so daunting afterall?
Here's a breakdown of a Korean routine, which helps you understand what it entails and let's you make the call on what will work for you.
Step 1 & 2 - Cleanser
As ever, the foundation of good skincare is clean skin and Koreans wholeheartedly concur.
So what do they do differently? Koreans love a double cleanse in their evening routine. What is this? It’s washing your face twice. Why do it? Because if you wear make-up and sunscreen, a single cleanse probably isn't doing enough.
The first step of the Korean double cleanse starts with an oil-based cleanser that removes whatever you’ve applied to your skin in the morning and whatever it has attracted throughout the day. Not only will this take off your liquid lipstick, destroy your mascara and eliminate SPF, it will also say goodbye to pollution, dirt and whatever else your face collected on public transport.
The second cleanse is designed to clean your skin, rather than remove make-up and impurities. This is where you use something you’ve specifically chosen for your skin type. Since your concealer and powder are already gone, this cleanser can balance and comfort your skin.
For me, this is usually a cream cleanser or a luxurious balm, which is just the thing when I want to do a bit of facial massage. This cleanse is also where I use my more expensive cleanser as I want its ingredients to benefit my skin, not work to remove my my make-up.
Do you need two separate cleansers to do a double cleanse? Nope. You can use the same cleanser twice. Please note, if you do wear make-up, I would definitely suggest you use an oil-based cleanser for these two steps. Fear not, it will not make oily skin more oily. And normal and dry skins will love it, too.
Step 3 - Exfoliator
If you’ve advanced beyond a basic skincare routine, then you are probably using an exfoliator a couple times per week. Korean skincare advocates the same. Exfoliation sloughs off dead skin cells, revealing brighter and younger skin. Just the thing to do when you need to put your best face forward.
Step 4 - Toner
Next up is toner, which Koreans use as a first step of hydration. Forget what you know about putting a toner-soaked cotton pad on your face and letting it wipe away the last traces of dirt from your skin. Your skin should be clean before you start toning.
Step 5 - Essence
Facial essence is another hydration step in the Korean plan. With a water-like consistency, this is gently patted on your face. Facial essence ingredients also begin treating your skin.
Unconvinced you need two hydrating steps before you even get to your moisturiser? I understand, however, keep this in mind: when a sponge is slightly damp as opposed to bone dry, it can more easily absorb additional water. When you prep your skin for moisturiser with a toner or essence (or both), your moisturiser will be able to penetrate more quickly.
Step 6 & 7 - Serum / Ampoule or Booster
At this point, serums are well known and you’re probably already using one.
The Korean innovation that has intrigued me is that of ampoule or booster. These are highly concentrated specialty liquids and focus on delivering just one or two benefits rather than several as you might find in a serum. Also, ampoules and boosters, tend to be used for finite periods of time, rather than daily.
Wondering if you need to add this to your routine? Consider Vitamin C if you’re dealing with dark spots or hyaluronic acid to combat dryness. Currently, I’m using this eye ampoule at night as well as this antioxidant booster. When summer gets closer, I love this booster for a radiant glow, without the complication of applying a self-tanner. For other concerns, let me know and I will help you find something to assist.
Step 8 - Sheet Mask
This is such a fun innovation and no doubt you’ve seen plenty of Instagram posts about these. If you choose to mask in front of others, they may be surprised to see you looking like a “damp ghost” (love this expression!). They are fantastic delivery systems for hydration and specialty serums.
A true Korean routine would have you do one every day. And while I have plenty of sheet masks in my cabinet, I don’t have the discipline or inclination to use them every day. I generally find my serum and moisturiser do the trick for me.
When I do reach for them is while travelling. Compact and easy to pack, I find they help alleviate the effects of plane air and jet lag.
Step 9, 10 & 11 - Eye Cream / Moisturiser / Sunscreen
This part of the Korean routine should be very familiar to you. These three are applied in the morning and evening. Well, except sunscreen. You know you only need it in the AM and that you need it everyday if you want to prevent premature ageing.
Step 12 - Sleeping Mask
And finally sleeping masks or sleep packs, about which I recently wrote. I know some of you are really enjoying them!
This Korean innovation gives you a light, but highly moisturising topper to apply at the end of your evening routine.
I also love to use these while travelling because they are so light and yet so hydrating.
Phew! That's your recap on the steps in Korean skincare. Maybe you've realised it's not so different from your regular skincare routine. Sure, some extra steps, but many aren’t required every day. And you can always pick and choose what to use, depending on how your skin is feeling and looking.
Want to know more or try something new? Check out this book. And if you can't find the product you're after at your favourite beauty retailer, these specialist websites ship internationally: Soko Glam, Peach & Lily, Wishtrend, TesterKorea, Style Korean, RoseRoseShop, YesStyle, Jolse.