Previously, I’ve written about what ingredients you should look for in skincare when you’re searching for something new. Since I also get questions from clients about whether they should avoid certain ingredients, I wanted to share my thoughts about this.
While I know a lot about skincare, I am definitely not a scientist, so this post will not provide an in-depth overview on a load of ingredients. If you are interested in knowing more about ingredients in specific products you use, you can consult the Skin Deep database. While this database originates in the US and may not include every product in the world, with 80,000 items in the database, it’s certainly a good place to start.
What I’d like to look at today is ingredients believed to cause endocrine disruption as well as whether natural skincare is your best option.
Endocrine disruption
Endocrine disruptors or phytoestrogens resemble oestrogens and can play a role in affecting menstrual cycle and fertility as well as hormone levels in men. Endocrine disruption can cause irregular periods, infertility and allergies. Three of the most common ingredients with a reputation for endocrine disruption are parabens, soy and phthalates.
Parabens
Parabens are preservatives, used to prevent growth of bacteria, mould, and fungus. They can be found in skincare, cosmetics and personal care products. On ingredient lists, they can generally be found containing the word paraben.
Why the concern over parabens? A 2004 study found them in human tissue during research about breast cancer. The study, however, did not find that the presence of parabens caused the cancer and the author of the study heavily refuted this misinterpreted conclusion.
Following this initial study, the European Union and the US have both concluded that parabens are safe to use. Research by the American Cancer Society has not found any evidence that there is a link between parabens and breast cancer. Cancer Research UK has agreed that there is no link between the two.
While no causation has been established, you will find products that do not use parabens. This is often listed on the front of the package, particularly in brands that have a more natural approach.
Although the products may be paraben free, it's worth noting that unless you are making the product at home, yourself, it is likely to contain preservatives of some kind.
Because parabens are some of the most researched, tested and commonly used preservatives demonstrating the least amount of skin sensitivity, choosing something that is paraben free may not be a better option.
Soy
Soy, when used in skincare, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It also helps stimulate collagen production and hyaluronic acid.
Ingestion of soy, however, has been shown to have an effect on oestrogens and is viewed as an endocrine disruptor. When used in skincare products, soy does not contain its isoflavone, which is the oestrogen receptor of this ingredient.
While concern over hormone disruption from topically applied soy is unfounded, if you have a serious internal soy allergy, you may want to avoid using it externally.
Phthalates
Phthalates or fragrance can be one of the most irritating ingredients in skincare. They are also believed to cause endocrine disruption. Often times, regulations don’t require fragrance ingredients to be listed, which means you may use something on your skin that you would prefer not to. If you are concerned about this, it is a good idea to choose fragrance-free products.
Natural skincare
With questions raised about these ingredients and others, natural skincare has become a growing area of interest and today there are many great lines to choose from. A visit to a local health store, Whole Foods or even a browse on Amazon is likely to yield you products from Green People, Burt’s Bees, Jason, NUDE, Weleda, and Honest Beauty, among others.
If you choose this route, it’s worth bearing a few things in mind. First, the term natural is unregulated so when you buy something that makes a natural claim, it may not use the same definition that you do or even share similar principles to something you bought last month. It’s important to do your research before selecting a product.
Second, natural ingredients can be harder to protect against bacteria, so you may buy something and find it has a shorter life span than a similar product made with synthetic ingredients. In the case of natural products, the large pack value buy may not be the most economical choice.
Finally, with natural ingredients, packaging matters a lot. When exposed to light and air, products may break down more quickly. If you are buying something that is natural, ensure it comes in an opaque, non-jar package.
If you are interested in products without a long list of ingredients, you might consider using coconut oil for cleansing and shaving, tea tree oil for breakouts, avocado for a face mask and honey combined with sea salt for an exfoliating scrub.
Choosing products is a highly personal issue that combines your own ingredient criteria with performance. Whatever you choose, it’s worth thinking about and doing some research to be sure you are comfortable with your choices.
Have you chosen not to use specific ingredients? Do you use natural skincare?