I’ve written previously about establishing a skincare routine, which I am sure you have down pat now! When you chose the items to use in your routine, it is likely that you selected tried and true brands that you have known and loved for years. Or maybe something recommended by a mother, sister or friend.
But have you ever had that moment when you feel like your favourite item isn’t working like it used to? This is generally because your skin adjusts to the ingredients in the product and over time, the moisturiser (or whatever the item in question is) doesn’t have the same effect. When you go on the hunt for a replacement, it’s worth selecting something with ingredients that will really benefit your skin.
This may raise a question for you: what should be in your chosen moisturisers, eye cream and serum? To help with this, I thought I’d outline the key ingredients I always look for when choosing products. Most will be highlighted on the packaging, but I’ve also given tips for what to look for in the ingredient list.
Vitamin A
If there is one ingredient you want to ensure your skincare contains, it is this one. Vitamin A strengthens skin, stimulates collagen and elastin and balances oil production. It can also normalise pigmentation (dark spots on skin), reduce fine lines and help to lock in moisture.
Choosing a moisturiser with Vitamin A is the best way for your skin to benefit from this ingredient. On the label, look for ingredients such as Retinyl Palmitate and Retinyl Acetate.
You may also be wondering about Retinol, which is the strongest non-prescription form of Vitamin A. This is generally used as a serum or booster to your moisturiser. However, it is only recommended to introduce Retinol after your skin has adjusted to lower levels of Vitamin A for a significant period of time (6 months to a year).
Why is this? Vitamin A is one of the most powerful anti-ageing ingredients, however if high concentrations of it are applied topically before your skin has a chance to adjust, you are likely to experience a healing crisis. This takes the form of dry, flaky and red skin and / or breakouts, which can last anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months. This is why gentle, yet progressive use of Vitamin A is recommended.
Please note, if you are pregnant or using prescribed acne medicine, Vitamin A usage is not recommended.
Antioxidants
Each day, ultraviolet light (which reaches us even when we can’t see the sun) exposes us to free radicals. These damage skin cells and break down collagen. To combat the destruction, it’s important to ensure your skincare contains antioxidants. These neutralise free radicals and their impact on the skin. The two best topical antioxidants available are Vitamins C and E.
Vitamin C reduces inflammation and redness, stimulates collagen and elastin and hydrates the skin. When examining the ingredients list, look for Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate and Ascorbyl Tetra-Isopalmitate.
Vitamin E helps to reflect UV rays, hydrate and heal the skin. You may find it in an ingredient list as Alpha-Tocopherol.
Peptides
While Vitamins A, C and E are easy to find in both budget and higher-end brands and should be your starting point for any skincare routine, when you get to the time (or age) when you feel you need a bit more, I suggest looking at products that contain peptides, which offer different variants and benefits.
Certain peptides increase collagen production. Vits A and C can start its production, but peptides such as Matrixyl or Dermaxyl can actually help make more of it. Copper peptides increase hyaluronic acid (moisture) production as well as collagen. Finally, neuropeptides such as Gamma Amino Butyric Acid (GABA) and Dimethyl Amino Ethanol (DMAE) help to relax and smooth muscles.
Peptides tend to be included in serum or booster products.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
If you would like to see younger, smoother skin, you should use a product containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs.
I know. The concept of putting an acid on your face sounds a bit scary. Plus, you might already be exfoliating your skin with a physical exfoliant. Exfoliating only reaches the top layer of skin, whereas naturally occurring AHAs will work more deeply to benefit your skin.
AHAs come in the form of fruit acids (generally from citrus fruits), lactic acid (from milk), mandelic acid (from almonds) and glycolic acid (from sugarcane). Glycolic acid tends to be the strongest, so if you have sensitive skin it would be best to start with a product containing one of the others. Mandelic acid is generally recommended for sensitive skin.
Like Vitamin A, the beauty of AHAs is that while your skin adjusts to them over time, you can also use higher concentrations over time, which will deliver results similar to when you first started using them.
AHAs can be included in serums, peels, cleansers and masks. When introducing an AHA to your routine, the recommendation of go slow remains firmly in place. Start by using the product just once a week. Over time, you can use it more frequently. A bit of flaking is to be expected. You are exfoliating after all, helping to smooth out lines by revealing new skin. What you don’t want to see is redness or feel irritation. If this happens, the acid concentration is too high for your skin.
If you do experience an adverse reaction, reduce the number of times you apply per week and / or your application time. You can also consider diluting it with another similar product that doesn’t contain AHAs (ie, mix an AHA serum with a non-AHA serum).
Growth Factors
The last ingredient worth considering is growth factors. These are gaining popularity because of the dramatic effect they can have on the skin. These chemical messengers tell the skin to increase production of new collagen and help to thicken the epidermis. Plus, if you have an issue with irritation from retinoids, then growth factors are a gentler alternative.
Growth factors do tend to be a pricey ingredient, though. They are great to use, but not as imperative as using products with Vitamin A, C and E. They come under too many different names and formats to effectively list here. If you are looking for a product with growth factors, this will clearly be listed on the front of the package as it will likely be the product's reason for existence.
I’ve tried to provide you with an ingredient list here so you’ll know what to look for next time you are shopping for a product. If you have specific questions about what to use or a product you are considering, please do let me know.