Have you had one of those “uh-oh” skin moments? Where your reflection in the mirror isn’t quite what you hoped it would be. Perhaps your skin looks dull, you see a spot getting ready to erupt or a new line appearing. If you’re wondering what to do, I have a suggestion for you: add acid to your skincare routine.
Frightened? That is not my intention! Please keep reading and let's see if I can talk you round.
While your daily routine will keep skin clean and moisturised, there comes a time when we need something more to deal with the effects of the environment, stress, sleep and diet on the face. This is where acid can be used to bring about true change, in a strength that’s perfectly safe to use at home.
Nervous, but curious? Let’s get more details. This power ingredient is used in a variety of skincare staples such as toner, serum and moisturiser. It gently exfoliates skin while leaving it brighter, smoother, firmer and more hydrated.
Sound interesting? Consider your options. There are currently three main acid categories: alpha hydroxy (AHA), beta hydroxy (BHA) and polyhydroxy (PHA). Each type can deliver specific results.
SKIN GOALS: Brighten Skin – Fade Pigmentation – Reduce Fine Lines – Increase Firmness
If this sounds like what you are after, then look to alpha hydroxy acids for support. These water-loving acids work at the skin’s surface to improve hydration, slough off cells to reveal younger, firmer skin and leaving lines less visible. In just a few uses, you’ll see brighter skin and over time, pigmentation can be faded.
AHAs are also the key to relief from millia (tiny white bumps, usually around the eyes) or keratosis pilaris (bumps on the backs of arms, often called chicken skin). You’ve probably tried in vain to remove these with an exfoliating scrub. If you use an AHA instead, you’ll dissolve the glue between the cells to remove the bumps. AHA is also perfect to de-flake shins, which is often needed as winter legs transition to summer.
Products to try: Pixi Glow Tonic, Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, Environ Revival Masque (you won’t find this unique triple acid combo on the high street, but I’ve got a stash in my treatment room), Nip+Fab Glycolic Fix Body Cream
SKIN GOALS: Clear Breakouts – Reduce Blackheads – Unclog Pores
If you feel your skin hasn’t progressed past puberty and have oily skin that is prone to breakouts, consider adding a beta hydroxy acid to your routine. It's oil-soluble, which means it loosens the sebum trapped in pores, which cause those unwanted spots. In addition to dissolving oil, this acid offers an antimicrobial effect, which helps eliminate bacteria, preventing future breakouts.
One note about BHAs to those of you who don’t have oily skin or persistent breakouts: this acid is NOT for you. If you have dry, normal or even combination skin, using a BHA for the occasional breakout will disrupt your skin’s oil balance and may leave you too dry. You’re better off using an AHA to improve your skin for the occasional breakout (choose one with glycolic acid).
Products to try: Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting Liquid Exfoliant, Murad Time Release Blemish Cleanser, SuperFacialist Salicylic Acid Purifying Cleansing Wash, Paula’s Choice Clear Exfoliating Body Spray (great if you have breakouts on your back or bum)
SKIN GOALS: Reduce Sensitivity - Support Collagen
If you ever experience skin sensitivity, then you may have been wincing while reading, thinking “my skin could never handle an acid”, however a polyhydroxy acid may transform your skin and how it behaves.
Sensitivity is usually a sign of a compromised skin barrier, meaning your outer layer has trouble holding onto water while keeping irritants out and reacts to almost anything that you put on it. The good news is that you can work to reduce your sensitivity with a PHA.
Delivering similar results to AHAs, PHAs have a larger molecule size, making them gentler, while providing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant support. This leaves you with a stronger skin barrier and less sensitivity.
Products to try: Zelens PHA+ Bio-Peel Resurfacing Face Pads, Exuviance Antioxidant Perfect 10 Serum (again, not on the high street, but available from me), COSRX PHA Moisture Renewal Power Cream.
As acids exfoliate and resurface your skin, they also allow for better product penetration, which means you could find your current routine is working more effectively after adding an acid. While this increased performance is exciting, acids should be introduced slowly (once or twice a week at night to begin). It is normal to experience a bit of tingling as you start using a new acid or use it more often.
Certain acids can make your skin more photosensitive, which is why night time application is often encouraged. Be sure to support acid usage with sunscreen in the morning, particularly if you are trying to reduce pigmentation. Sunscreen is critical to keeping dark spots at bay.
If you want to look in the mirror and see glowing skin, no breakouts and a lovely even tone, consider a new secret weapon: acid.
Here’s a list of the most common acids you’ll find in ingredient lists.
AHA
Citric (from citrus fruits and corn) reverses photo damage, reduces fine lines, brightens skin and increases its thickness.
Glycolic (from sugar) is a favourite due to its small molecule size. This allows it to penetrate quickly, so you will want to introduce it slowly. This acid stimulates collagen production, evens skin tone and reduces wrinkles as it builds the dermal matrix support structure. It also controls sebum production making it a good choice for combination skin with the occasional breakout.
Lactic (from milk) is antimicrobial, hydrating and softening. It helps prevent pigmentation and adjusts pH.
Malic acid (from apples) is an antioxidant that hydrates and soothes, while increasing tissue respiration.
Mandelic (from almonds) helps reduce pigmentation. It is also antibacterial and can help reduce oiliness, without drying skin.
Tantaric (from grapes) is an antixodant and boosts skin respiration.
BHA
The predominant acid in this category is salicylic. Derived from willow bark, wintergreen oil and sweet birch, this acid loves oil and penetrates more deeply into the skin to clear out pores.
PHA
Galactose (from sugar) help collagen synthesis and hydration.
Gluconolactone (naturally occurring ingredient in cells) is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. It hydrates the skin, protects it from UV damage, reduces redness and helps maintain elasticity.
Lactobionic (from lactose) is a soothing humectant and antioxidant. It boosts firmness and prevents the loss of collagen. Great for dehydrated skin.